An informal exploration of the history and culture of an Ionian treasure, taking in its rich legacy of archaeology, military & cultural history, and enduring British connections.

This 6-night and 7-day tour explores some of the best archaeological and historical (both military and cultural) sites on the island of Corfu. Based out of a luxury hotel in Old Corfu Town we visit a range of sites representing every era of the island’s rich and multilayered history: from evidence of Greek, Roman & Early Christian habitation on the site of the ancient capital of Palaepolis; through to the exquisite Byzantine Monastery of Paleokastritsa and dramatic cliff-top castle of Angelokastro; Venetian architecture and coastal fortresses in Corfu town; to the magnificent colonial period neoclassical palaces at St Michael & St George, Achillion and Mon Repos. The island’s excellent museums are a key feature of this tour where we reinforce our understanding of Corfu’s fascinating story and marvel over the remarkable artefacts that are the pride of the island. And acting as the tour’s centrepiece is our tour base in the charming Corfu Town, a consummate Venetian settlement of stately Italianate architecture, charming ancient lanes and pavement cafes, hinting at the island’s fascinating past.

Staying in a luxury hotel and enjoying fine local cuisine and wines, this is a perfect opportunity to explore the island’s engaging history in the company of our host historian and local guide.

The tour will involve exploring Corfu old town and several ancient sites on foot. Distances are generally short and well paved, but there are some steps and gradients to negotiate. on foot and although most surfaces are flat there are also steps to negotiate.

In Greek mythology Corfu was the utopian Scheria, home of the Phaeacians, where Odysseus was cast up on his return to Ithaca. The island became a Corinthian colony by 735 BC but its quarrel with mainland overlords became a contributing factor in the outbreak of the Peloponnesian Wars (431- 404 BC). Changing hands several times over the ensuing centuries, Corfu became a Roman free state and in 31 BC was used as a naval base by the Emperor Octavian against Mark Anthony. During the Byzantine (Eastern Roman Empire) period, Corfu suffered attacks by Vandals and pirates which led to a period of depopulation and decline. The island fell to a succession of invaders – Arabs, Lombards, Saracens, Normans - and became a pawn between the kings of Sicily and the city-states of Genoa and Venice. In 1214 Corfu came under the Greek Despotate of Epirus before falling to the Angevins by the end of the century.

In 1368 it was taken by the Venetians who held it until 1797 – and this forms the most significant period in the island’s history leaving an indelible mark in Corfu’s architecture, particularly in Corfu Town. After coming under French and even Russian control during the Napoleonic wars the island became a British Protectorate by the Treaty of Vienna in 1815. This introduced a period of benign development during which oppressive Venetian influence was reduced and the subservient Curfuit population educated and prepared for self-government. Some of the grandest buildings date from this period including the Ionian Academy, Palace of St Michael & St George and the Mon Repos estate. Britain duly ceded Corfu to Greece in 1864. In World War One it was the terminus for the ‘Great Retreat’ of the Serbian Army across the Balkans - only 180,000 made it to the island, of whom 30,000 died of starvation and disease. Occupied by Italy in World War Two, Corfu was the scene of German massacres of surrendering Italian troops. Since the war Corfu has become a bespoke holiday destination and tourism is now the mainstay of the economy.

Day 1: Arrival: fly London to Corfu (or join the tour at the hotel). Hotel in Corfu Town for 6 nights. Welcome drinks and introductory talk. The tour then unfolds chronologically day by day: (D)

Day 2: Classical Period: We start our week with a visit to the excellent Archaeological Museum which serves as orientation for our day’s exploration what remains of Paleopolis, the ancient capital on an attractive peninsula one mile south of modern Corfu town - a UNESCO World Heritage site in its entirety, with roots going back to the 8th century BC. Focussing on the town’s earliest history we admire the Tomb of Menekratis, ambassador of ancient Korkyra (Corfu) lost at sea in the 6th century BC. We then go in search of the surviving evidence of ancient Greek, Roman and Early Christian occupation of the site, including glimpses of the ancient walls and harbour; the Temple of Artimis; the romantic Doric temple of Kardaki; the site of the Roman Colosseum and Baths; Basilica; the ancient Garitsa church; and still-functioning Ag Theodori Convent. We visit Mons Repos estate with its lovely neoclassical palace built between 1828 and 1832 - birthplace of the late Duke of Edinburgh and now home to the small Paleopolis museum. At the end of the peninsula, we stop for lunch overlooking the photogenic Vlachernes Monastery – a Corfu icon - before taking a short boat ride to Pontikonissi (Mouse) Island to view its 11th Century Byzantine chapel. (B,D)

Day 3: Byzantine / Venetian Period: Today we take a relaxed walking tour of the Venetian quarter of Corfu Town. We start with a visit to the 16th Century ‘New’ Castle, where we admire the impressive Venetian fortifications later strengthened under British rule. Within the Old Town we admire the range of neoclassical Venetian architecture and remains of defensive walls and gates, explore the lively central market and subdued Jewish Quarter where we visit the Synagogue to learn the tragic fate of the local Jewish population in World War Two. We also view the ornate St Spyridon’s church with its preserved remains of the island’s patron saint, and the impressive loggia Town Hall, built by the Venetian Army as their officers’ mess, between 1663 and 1693. Today is also Greek National Day – so over lunchtime we will enjoy the spectacle of military parades and civic processions through the streets. In the afternoon, there will be time free time to further explore the town’s quiet backstreets and cafes, and smaller museums. (B, D)

Day 4: Ottoman Raids: Travelling across the island, we spend the day on the west coast with its lush vegetation and beautiful cliffs & beaches which we will view on foot and by boat. We visit the Paliokastritsa Monastery, dating from the 1220s - the oldest on the island. Set on a prominent hill above the sea it is a spectacular site – as is the nearby lofty Angelokastro Castle used by the Venetians to counter Genoese and Ottoman attacks. Whilst up at this height we will take lunch at the spectacular Bella Vista – the name explains itself! Depending on time and interest, there will be opportunities to visit a distillery, olive factory and even a secret World War Two submarine base en route. (B, D)

Day 5: ‘British’ Period: Today, we explore the ‘British’ half of Corfu Town on foot focussing on the period of the British Protectorate (1815–64). We start with a tour of the Palace of St Michael & St George – the former seat of the British Governor which also houses two fine art galleries. Next door we visit the Old Castle and see how British Royal Engineers adapted the ancient Venetian fortress for modern warfare and how the garrison lived with the addition of a barracks, hospital, church and cookhouse. Lunch in one of the smart cafes of the Liston Galleries will give us an idea of how Venetian aristocracy and British civil & military officers relaxed in style. In the afternoon we visit Casa Parlante where multilingual students from Corfu University will show us how rich Corfiot families lived in the British period. We then take a leisurely walk along the lawns of the Esplanade with its cricket pitch, bandstands and pavilions bearing witness to the British influence – and the Ionian Academy, set up by the far-sighted Lord Guildford to prepare the Ionian population for self-government. (B,D)

Day 6: Ancient & Modern period: On our final full day, we travel by coach to the remote north-east of the island passing by the old Venetian naval base at Gouva. We pass the narrow straits between Corfu and Albania – site of naval battles from ancient times to the two World Wars. We stop at picturesque Kassiopi for a coffee after a brief climb up to the ruins of its ancient castle with splendid views over the sea from which raiders menaced the island throughout history. We then drive to the remarkable village of Old Perithia for lunch. With its origins in the 14th century this was once the wealthiest village on the island and a safe haven against pirate attacks (‘to see the sea but not be seen’). It later fell into decay but it is now being lovingly restored. In the afternoon we move to the beautiful Achillion Palace originally built for the Empress Elizabeth (‘Sissy’) of Austria (1837-98) as ‘a palace worthy of Achilles’. Purchased by Kaiser William II (1859-1941) in 1907 as a summer residence the palace became a hub of European diplomacy. (B,D)

Day 7: Home: On our final morning, we will visit the nearby Serb Embassy to learn the tragic but heroic story of the defeat of the Serb Army in World War One; their desperate retreat across mountains to find refuge in Corfu; how diplomatic bungling resulted in 30,000 of their sick & wounded dying on desolate Vido Island off Corfu Town; and yet how the survivors nevertheless reformed and distinguished themselves fighting with the British Salonika Force.

Thence a midday flight back to London - or you may want to extend your stay on the island. (B).