Albania is home to some of the Classical world’s most fabulous sites but is frequently overshadowed by its southerly neighbour. This is without justification as the country holds a rich panoply of Classical remains. We visit Appollonia, where a youthful Octavian on hearing of the assassination of his great-uncle Caesar embarked on his bid for power that ultimately made him emperor. At the bucolic site of Antigoneia we learn about its famous founder Pyrrhus of Epirus (319/318–272 BC), whose victories were won at such great cost and at Durres marvel at the splendid Roman amphitheatre. At Butrint we soak up the atmosphere of what is arguably the most beautiful combination of archaeology and nature in the Mediterranean world, whose occupation lasted from 50,000 BC up until the nineteenth century. We enjoy the stone city of Gjirokastër, Albania’s best-kept secret, and Berat, the 2,400-year-old “city of a thousand windows”, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Throughout our stay we are hosted by the wonderful Albanian people, proud of their origins in the 2,500-year-old tribes of Illyria, and eager to share their fine cuisine, 3000-year-old tradition of wine making and lively folk music scene.

During classical antiquity Albania was inhabited by groups of Indo-European speaking tribes in an area known later to the Greeks and Romans as Illyria. Nevertheless there is considerable debate as to whether these peoples recognised themselves as Illyrians in the way later writers framed them. The first known Illyrian king, Bardylis, emerged in what is now Albania around 400 BC and soon came into conflict with Macedon. Greek colonies started to be set up in what is now Albania from the 7th century BC one of the most prominent being Apollonia, established by Corinth. The greatest known Illyrian kingdom were the Ardiaei who emerged in the 3rd century BC and extended their dominance into northern Albania. The Ardiaei Queen Teuta clashed with the expanding Roman Empire and initiated 60 years of war which resulted in the end of Illyrian independence by 168 BC. Rome came to dominate the western Balkans and the province of Illyricum was created. Rome absorbed Greek cities and culture and introduced levels of civilization enjoyed in other parts of her empire. Christianity came to the region in the 3rd to 4th centuries AD and the new religion was preached from, amongst other places, the huge Durres Amphitheatre. When the Empire divided in 395 AD what is now Albania found itself in the unusual position of being administered as part of the Eastern Empire from Constantinople but under the religious jurisdiction of the Pope in Rome until 732 AD.

Day 1

Fly London to Tirana or make your own arrangements to join the tour at the Tirana hotel. After checking into our hotel in the centre there is time to relax and/or explore the city. Before dinner we will have an introductory talk by our guide. Hotel in Tirana – 2 nights. (D).

Day 2

Today we spend a full day in Tirana getting to know this fascinating and varied city. With its origins in the Iron Age Tirana became the centre of the Illyrian Kingdom of the Taulantii and was later annexed by the Romans. We get a superb insight into the multi-layered nature of the city, and indeed, the country itself. We will also gain a greater understanding of postclassical Albania as we wander the delightful pedestrianised streets marvelling at Ottoman and Communist heritage, as well as the brash brightly painted buildings. There is the option of visiting the remarkable Communist-era bunkers. (B, D).

Day 3

We leave Tirana and drive to Apollonia, one of the treasures of Classical Albania. Founded as a Greek colony in around 600 BC the city became an important trading centre and flourished as a later Roman city. It lay at one of the starting branches of the Via Egnatia road to Byzantium. Amongst the wealth of remains at the site we will see the 2nd Century AD Monument to Agonothetes, the Roman city’s municipal council meeting building. Continue our journey through spectacular scenery to the World Heritage city of Gjirokastra. Hotel in Gjirokastra – 4 nights. (B, D).

Day 4 

We drive south to the incredible Classical site of Butrint, probably the most important archaeological site in the country. Originally a settlement of the Greek tribe of the Chaonians it later became part of the state of Epirus and then a Roman colonia and Byzantine bishopric. Among the highlights of this site are the Theatre and Agora and the unique combination of archaeology and natural beauty at this stunning location. (B, L, D).

Day 5

A day exploring the beautiful stone city of Gjirokastra. Here we can take time wandering the cobbled streets and admiring the fabulous mountain scenery of this special place. Gjirokastra is a place to savour and enjoy. We will visit the museum and castle with its splendid views and mysterious fuselage of a downed US Air Force jet! And additionally we will enter several of the sturdy stone-built konaks (residences) one of which was the home of the celebrated Albanian writer Ismail Kadare. (B, D).

Day 6

We travel today to the grassy hillside site of Antigoneia, founded in 295 BC by Pyrrhus, King of Molloses (Epirus), in honour of his spouse Antigonea. This was a sophisticated city with paved roads, sewage water pipes, pavements, and a modern quadrilateral city plan. It had solid defensive walls over 4000m in length. We drive from here to the lovely Byzantine church of Labova i Kryqit built on the site of a Hellenistic garrison. And thence to the Roman site of Hadrianopolis with its compact theatre. (B, L, D).

Day 7

We leave Gjirokastra and drive north to the ancient city of Byllis, in its truly spectacular position above the Vjosa valley below. Its origins are in the 5th century BC. Here we view the outstandingly well-preserved remains of a 7500-seat theatre, in a truly atmosphere setting, and stadium. We continue on through dramatic Balkan scenery to the exquisite town of Berat, a World Heritage city, and home to a profusion of churches, mosques, murals and frescoes. Drive to Durres and our hotel for 2 nights. (B, D).

Day 8 – in the morning visit the huge Durres Roman amphitheatre, only discovered in 1966, and the largest ever built in the Balkan Peninsula with a capacity of 20,000 people! We spend the afternoon at the lovely hillside town of Kruje with its towering castle set against a dramatic mountain background. This gorgeous town, with its cobbled markets, pencil-straight minarets and crisp mountain air, is one of Albania’s gems. There is also the chance to visit the castle and its Skanderberg Museum (optional) relating the story of the formidable 15th century leader. Return to Durres. (B, D).

Day 9 – spend time relaxing before travelling from Durres to Tirana airport for our flight to London (or perhaps extend your stay in Albania). (B).