The history and culture of eastern Turkey is simply staggering. For millennia a complex crossing point of armies, traders, religions and travellers the region has hosted a rollcall of ancient peoples and cultures, some only now being rediscovered by the discerning traveller: Urartians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Mitannians, Commagenians, Armenians and Ottomans to name a few. Their legacy is an extraordinarily rich trove of sites: from the world’s oldest megaliths at Göbeklitepe, and the brooding stone figures of Mount Nemrut, through to the outstanding mosaics at the Zeugma Museum and beautiful medieval churches of Lake Van, the region is a compelling destination. 

Eastern Turkey is a rugged area comprising a mountainous north and a high arid plateau of 600m in elevation towards the south. There is evidence of habitation here from earliest times and by the Neolithic period several settlements had developed, most famously Göbekli Tepe. This is considered one of the first examples of man-made monumental architecture and is over 5,000 years older than Stonehenge. In time trade networks developed between the region and Mesopotamia to the south and by 1300 BC the Hittites, with their base in central Anatolia, had extended their hegemony over the Upper Euphrates. By the 14th century BC the rising power of Assyria, based largely in what is now northern Iraq, started to expand northwards and by the 7th century BC held sway over vast areas of eastern Turkey. Beyond Lake Van they came up against the Kingdom of Urartu. By the 4th century BC the Seleucid Empire began an expansionist policy which in time dominated the whole area before being eroded by the eastward growth of the mighty Roman Empire. The region became a buffer zone between Rome, Parthia and the Kingdom of Armenia. With the growth of Islam the region was dominated by the Umayyad Caliphate and became of zone of conflict between Arab and Byzantine armies. By the 16th century AD the region was conquered by the Ottoman Turks and since 1923 has been sovereign territory of the Turkish Republic. This is indeed an area with a rich and captivating history.

Day 1: Fly London to Gaziantep via Istanbul to arrive late evening or join tour there. Hotel in Gaziantep – 1 night.

Day 2: This morning we explore Gaziantep starting with the superb Zeugma Mosaic Museum, the largest museum of its kind in the world. Here we marvel at the unparalleled collection of Hellenistic and Roman mosaics which are the pride of south-east Turkey. In the 2000s the nearby ancient city of Zeugma (known as Commagene in Roman times) was threatened with inundation as plans were developed to build new dams on the Euphrates. This prompted a large-scale recovery of these exquisite mosaics. We then visit the vibrant bazaar area before starting our afternoon drive to Adıyaman. Lunch at own expense. Hotel in Adıyaman – 1 night. (B, D).

Day 3: A breathtaking drive into the hills where we stop off at the Karakuş Tumulus funerary monument (built by Mithridates II of Commagene in 30–20 BC), the beautifully preserved late Roman bridge of Cendere Köprüsü and Arsameia, the royal seat of the Commagene kingdom. We then continue to the extraordinary Nemrut Dağ, a mountaintop sanctuary built by the Hellenistic King Antiochos I of Commagene (69-34 BC) as a monument to himself. A 600 metre walk from the road-head takes us to the summit where we marvel at a number of lofty statues, brooding human faces among them, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Continue to Şanlıurfa. Hotel in Şanlıurfa – 2 nights. (B, L, D).

Day 4: Today we drive the short distance to visit the incredible Neolithic site at Göbeklitepe, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018. Considered the oldest and largest ritual site in the world, Göbeklitepe has radically challenged our preconceptions that only settled societies can produce monumental architecture. Here we admire a series of carved monolithic structures up to 5 meters in height. We return to Şanlıurfa for lunch then spend the afternoon at the superb museum which includes a wealth of objects from Göbeklitepe as well as Assyrian, Babylonian and Hittite collections. The early evening is spent at the atmospheric Abraham’s Cave and the Pools of Holy Carp. This is said to be Abraham’s birthplace and where he was cast into a fire by king Nimrod. The flames turned to water and the burning wood transformed into carp, thus the Holy Carp we see today. (B, L, D).

Day 5: This morning we move east to visit the Neolithic site of Karahan Tepe, sister site to Göbeklitepe, and with its origins as far back as 10,000 BC, thought to be the oldest known human village. We continue through beautiful scenery to Mardin with its lofty citadel and stone buildings cascading down a mountain to the plains below. We spend the afternoon exploring architecture dating to Artuqid times (12th to 15th centuries AD) and the town’s Syriac churches. Hotel in Mardin – 2 nights. (B, L, D).

Day 6: A fascinating day exploring the remarkable Tur Abdin region, cultural and spiritual homeland to the Syriac Orthodox Assyrians, a people with their origins in the Assyrian Empire of the 10th century BC. Our first stop is the town of Midyat with its old Assyrian quarter where you can still hear the soft cadences of Turoyo, a Neo-Aramaic language which would have been familiar to Jesus Christ. We then drive across the historic north Mesopotamia plain to the lovely Mor Gabriel, founded in 397 AD and the oldest surviving Syrian Orthodox monastery in the world. Our journey continues to Ḥāḥ (Anıtlı) where we marvel at more captivating Syrian Orthodox heritage at the monastery church of Yoldath Aloho, the most beautiful in Tur Abdin. Return to Mardin after a highly stimulating day. (B, L, D).

Day 7: Today we make the long but rewarding journey to the town of Tatvan on Lake Van through the increasingly mountainous scenery of the Upper Tigris. After checking in to our hotel we continue along the shores of the lake to visit the stunning Ahlat Seljuk tombs. Dating from the 12th – 15th centuries AD these exquisite tombstones are richly decorated with geometric patterns and elaborate muqarnas decorations reflecting a particularly advanced level of artistry. Hotel in Tatvan – 1 night. (B, L, D).

Day 8: Starting the day with the beautiful view of the lake framed by spectacular mountains beyond we enjoy a drive along the shore to take the short boat crossing to the island of Akdamar. This incredible location is the home to the 10th century AD Armenian Holy Cross Cathedral, the seat of the Armenian Apostolic see of Aghtamar from 1116 to 1895. There is something incredibly rewarding in admiring the frescoes and intricately carved reliefs in this peaceful place. We return to shore and continue to Van where after checking in to our hotel we visit the excellent museum with its extensive collection of Urartian artefacts and inscriptions. Hotel in Van – 2 nights. (B, L, D).

Day 9: This morning we enjoy the treasures of this interesting city including the imposing castle known as the Rock of Van, a massive stone fortification built by the Kingdom of Urartu from the 9th to 7th centuries BC. Our Urartian theme continues this afternoon when we drive through rugged landscape to the fort at Çavuştepe Kalesi. Alongside the fortification walls can be seen a sophisticated palace dating from the height of Urartian power in the reign of Sarduri II (764–735 BC). (B, L, D).

Day 10: there is free time to explore the city before driving to Van airport for our afternoon flight to London via Istanbul. (B).