The stories of Anzio and Cassino are etched into the hillsides, scattered through forests, and buried in the quiet valleys of central Italy. This is ground where men fought in mud and blood, where armies clashed in winter rain and mountain snow, and where the outcome of a continent hung in the balance. Here, remnants of that struggle still remain: trenches cut into rock, rusting bunkers hidden among the trees, tank turrets half-buried like broken relics of some ancient battle. Our route winds from the brutal mountain passes and swollen rivers of Cassino across the cracked plain and parched gullies or “wadis” of the Anzio front, where movement was deadly and survival uncertain, to the Alban Hills, overlooking the sea from the calm heights of Nemi, once a vantage point for German spotters and now eerily peaceful.

After the blood-soaked landings at Salerno and the grinding battles along the Volturno, the Allied advance stalled before the jagged barrier of the Winter Line. At places like Camino and San Pietro, British and American troops clawed their way forward, yard by yard, against a determined enemy who knew the ground and gave no quarter. The real test came at Cassino, at the heart of the Gustav Line anchored on the high ground of Monte Cassino’s ancient monastery, which became a fortress of rock and fire. The battles here were hard-fought and punishing in a way few had imagined. Whole units were broken against river crossings, artillery barrages, and hills that became killing fields. Even after breaching the Gustav Line, the Allies had to break through the Hitler Line, defended with equal strength. It was not a single victory, but a campaign of attrition won by the accumulated sacrifice of Free French, Canadian, Polish, British, and American forces. Then came Anzio, an audacious attempt to outflank the deadlock. It was meant to be swift and decisive. Instead, it became a trap in which the beachhead was almost lost. Weeks of fighting in stagnant trenches followed, as Allied troops held on against fierce German counterattacks. Victory did not come through bold strategy, but through endurance, through holding the line until reinforcements arrived and the German front began to crack. The road to Rome was not a triumphal march. It was a long, bitter climb through some of the harshest fighting of the Second World War. And its story is still written on the land.

Day 1: Arrival
Fly London to Rome or make your own arrangements to join the tour at the hotel. Drive to Cassino where we check into our hotel for four nights. Introductory talk. (D).

Day 2: San Pietro Infine and the approach to Cassino
Our first stop today is San Pietro Infine where we explore how the US 36th Division fought three battles for the town before they failed to cross the Rapido - and the controversy that surrounded it. We then move on to the fabulous Winter Line Museum at Venafro which explains the hardly understood yet bloody and bitter battles of the Winter Line. There should have been no pause at Christmas time, but General Clark allowed his exhausted troops to lick their wounds before closing in on the Garigliano and Cassino. We then travel to Gallucio where we see how the Guards and 56th Division took Monte Camino. Our final stop is at the Monte Trocchio Monument where the Allies gained an excellent view over the terrain and Liri valley before them. (B, D).

Day 3: The Lower Garigliano
Continuing the theme of the first attempt to cross the rivers whilst under the eyes of Cassino, we will examine both the British failures and successes on the Lower Garigliano. First, 128 (Hampshire) Brigade’s doomed crossings near Rocco D’Evandro before we study 56 (London) Division’s storming success at Castleforte and the shocking fighting for Damiano Ridge where Pte Mitchell of 1st Bn London Scottish won a VC. The day will culminate at Minturno CWGC Cemetery near where 5 (Yorkshire) Div crossed the Garigliano. (B, D).

Day 4: Battles for Cassino
Today is concentrated around Cassino. First, we will examine the decision to bomb the monastery whilst looking at its opulent replacement. The New Zealanders’ fighting for the town of Cassino will follow, then the Polish thrust for the heights above the town. To finish the day, we will consider the main operation - Diadem - in May 1944 to break through the Germans’ resistance. This will include a visit to the Amazon Bridge memorial where the Royal Engineers suffered heavy casualties building a vitally important Bailey Bridge. Fittingly, we will pay our respects at the Cassino CWGC as a prelude to the next day. Dinner under your own arrangements. (B).

Day 5: Break out & Hitler Line
No account of the fighting around Cassino is complete without the Canadians’ and Free French epilogue between the towns of Pontecorvo and Aquino. The cracking of the bristling Hitler Line was a minor epic and the remains of the concrete bunkers and tank turrets which the Germans used can still be seen. From there, we will drive to the Anzio Beachhead area stopping en route at the Nettuno American Cemetery to use its excellent diorama for orientation. We will also examine the US Rangers’ attack on the Mussolini Canal and 3rd Inf Div’s bloody fight at Isola Bella and bold assault on Cisterna in January 1944. Check-in to our Nettuno hotel for two nights. (B, D).

Day 6: Anzio
Our penultimate day will start at Anzio harbour where we learn about the landings in January 1944 and establishment of the beachhead. We next drive inland to examine the mayhem at Aprilia and the Flyover before the German counter-attack was stemmed. We will also visit the Buon Riposo ridge and the area known as the ‘wadis’, which few other groups do. The ‘wadis’ fighting of Feb - May 44 epitomises Anzio yet few other guides go there and when they do they get lost! (B, D).

Day 7: Overview
On our last morning we drive up to the Alban Hills and stop at the town of Ariccia from where a stunning view can be had back to the coast. This gives us a sharp appreciation of the progress of Allied forces trying to break out of the Anzio beachhead. We then drive up to the bijou village of Nemi where Lord Byron wrote Childe Harold. In 1944, though, it was altogether a more sinister place as the Germans used it for their artillery observers. In this wonderful eyrie, we sum up the events of those crucial months below Rome. Fly Rome to London or perhaps extend your stay in Italy. (B).